Where does a fella even start? Since I collect the older (pre 1960’s) stuff, let’s concentrate on those here. Signs come in a wide variety of sizes and materials, and its impossible to categorize them all here. If you have an old sign, here’s some info that will help you.
There are a few pointers to keep in mind when evaluating ANY kind of sign:
Condition
If it has celluloid or plastic components, check the edges and surfaces for cracks or breaks. Inspect the image for fading, warping or damage. When the bulbs burned out in beer signs,the bartender sometimes replaced it with whatever wattage bulb he had in the bar. They were too hot, and caused the interior paint to flake and warp. I have bought signs for parts and components, so DON’T throw an old sign away.
Graphics
A sign with a bottle, can, character or brewery on it will usually be more desirable than on with simple text. And it may not apply every time, but a short lived brewery or small town can be more collectible than a mega-brewer. The material a sign is made of may affect the value too-tin signs survive better than cloth or celluloid.
Age
I prefer OLD stuff. In fact, the older, the better. But I’m backtracking on my own comments already. Really old signs were plain text, for the most part. And these will usually exceed 1930’s-40’s signs even though they may have great graphics. Look for words that have a period after them-like Anthony Yoerg.Brewer.St Paul MN. They are usually turn-of-the century.
There are simply too many examples, eras and brewers to define here. With 28 years experience, a huge reference library and network of friends, and a desire to add quality items to my shelf, it’s worth your time to email me. I’m Barry the beerguy!